Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s “Big B” success stories. The resurgence of the Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape in this small wine region has never slowed down—demand continues to outstrip supply and prices rise correspondently.
Xavier arrived in Provence in the 1990s as an outsider. He was from the North of France and had worked in Champagne and Bordeaux. He wasn’t a farmer by training, or even the son of a farmer; he was (is) a scientist. Not held back by tradition, he is happy to experiment.
Life is short and the list of wines is long. If you prefer to drink white with dinner once in a while, or every time, then know you are in good company and of sound reason.
Five wines well worth seeking out: 2019 Charles Baker Riesling, 2020 Quinta da Boa Esperança Aristo Branco, 2019 Quinta do Cardo Tinto, 2019 St. John Claret, and 2019 Boulevard Napoleon Carignan.
It’s become accepted practice in some wine circles to downplay the so-called “international grapes” in favour of those called “indigenous”. But great wines never really go out of style.
Context in wine is everything, and 11:30 in the morning at a desk in a row of wine trade colleagues is not as magical as 10 in the evening in the piazza on a father-son getaway to Northern Italy.
It’s hard not to see wine clubs as the once and future model of fine wine in this country. Outside of Alberta, it seems unlikely the provinces will ever give up their retail stranglehold to the private sector in any significant way.
The 2021 Caruso & Minini Naturalmente Bio Catarratto is a $20 odd dollar wine ($21.95 in Ontario) that drinks like something twice the price.
Is the point to buck the latest trends, and run in the opposite direction of the madding crowd in search of undiscovered gems or ones that have passed from fashion and ought to be rediscovered? There is so much wine out there, it’s good to be reminded of some old favourites, like listening to an old album after many years.
Despite its relatively small size, Napa Valley is a big brand. The success in the 1970s that established Napa Valley terroir has ultimately led to more freedom for the winemakers, in the field and in the cellar.
