A young woman drinks a glass of wine in a bar in downtown Prague, Czech Republic, Dec. 10, 2004. Petr David Josek/AP Photo.

Warming wines for winter nights

Xavier arrived in Provence in the 1990s as an outsider. He was from the North of France and had worked in Champagne and Bordeaux. He wasn’t a farmer by training, or even the son of a farmer; he was (is) a scientist. Not held back by tradition, he is happy to experiment.